Fred and all,

Here is how I synchronize my carburetors on the Espada:

The synchronization is done with all components connected and
actuated as would be done during regular driving.
It is an advantage to get the 6 individual connecting rods with left-
and right-hand threads. Otherwise the adjustment can be no more
accurate than the pitch of the thread, which turns out to be
inadequate. I originally had right hand threads on all ad got the
left- and right-hand threaded rods from GTCP.

Use a synchronizer such as "UNI-SYN".
After warming up the engine, speed it up to about 2500 rpm (assuring
all rods are in tension) using the throttle cable tension adjuster
on the bulkhead (firewall) and measure the flow through each
carburetor. If there is a gross systematic difference between left
and right bank, then adjust one of the rods to either left or right
bank to get close. Then equalize the flow by leaving one carburetor
as the target flow and adjusting the other 5 rods to get close to
identical flow. This can be a little unpleasant since everything
gets hot and noisy. When the locking nut is loosened (on the
adjustment rods) the adjustment changes because of vibration if the
engine is running, so the adjustments are best made with the engine
stopped and the locking nut tensioned before the engine is started
to verify the result.

Once the 2500 rpm synchronization is made (and all locking nuts
tightened), then be sure to loosen the throttle cable so there is a
little bit of play at idle. When the engine is idling, make sure
that all 6 carburetor shafts rest on their idle adjustment screws.
This is done by verifying that the flow changes with a small change
on the idle screw. There should be enough backlash (slop) in the
connection rods to ensure all shafts are resting on the screws. Then
do the synchronization with the idle screws for close to equal flow
and if idle rpm needs adjustment change all idle screws evenly and
verify equal airflow.

It should be adequate to measure just one of the two tracts on the
carburetor. If there is a significant difference between the two
tracts on a carburetor then that's a carburetor problem.

These are the steps I go through with my carburetors reduced to
throttle bodies (fuel injection). Having regular carburetors require
an extra step in adjusting the idle mixture, probably using Color-
Tune.

Unfortunately a synchronization is necessary each time a part in the
chain is removed and re-installed, since the needed positional
accuracy of the connecting rods are about a ¼ mm and component re-
installment accuracy is about 1 mm.

I just went through this exercise today (after changing how I pull
vacuum to the brakes) and am very happy with the result.

Laust