From: "docmirror <mirror@interfold.com>" <mirror@interfold.com>

Date: Tue Dec 10, 2002 11:02 am

Subject: Cooling system notes of interest

I'm just finishing up the refurb of the cooling system on my Espada

S1, and will share some tidbits I found. Unlike most of my posts, I'll

keep it short. DON'T run the engine with no water in the system!

1. Be careful if you take your radiator to a shop to repair. Find a

tech with gray hair to work on it, and be warned that the type of

assembly on the original radiator is difficult to get back together

without leaking at rated pressure(2atm or 14.7psig) Have it tested

carefully before leaving the shop. Take your cap too, test it. The

bottom rad bolts and nuts are a %*&#$^%# to remove.

2. The thermostat is at the front end of the return pipe between the

heads. It is screwed in, and the threads seem to become clogged, or

damaged due to dissimilar metal contact and contaminants in the

coolant. It would be better to test it in boiling water by not

removing it from the tube. Just boil and stick the end of the pipe in

the pot. Check for full openning and closing. If you're anal, use a

thermometer and watch the action as the water heats up.

3. There are three sensors (in my system), two at the top of the

radiator, and one off the back of the return tube. The triangle one

switches the fan on at 190F, the thermistor next to it provides signal

to the temp gauge. I don't know where the wires from the rear sensor

go, but be careful when removing the tube (4 10mm nuts/washers) to

take off the spade conn first, and the heater hose, be gentle with the

sensors.

4. bottom hose = 1 1/4", use about 7 inches of Green Stripe, trim to

fit. Top hose = 1 3/4", use about 1 foot trim to fit. New clamps too!

5. Don't forget the heater lines. mine were rock hard, splitting and

ready to gush. Supply is from the rear of the return tube, thru

firewall to the control valve just above drivers right knee. Take off

choke bracket, remove screws and remove trim panel by lowering section

next to steering column and swivel it out. From valve to the core in

the center console and back out the side to the engine compartment.

Plan on several hours getting the hoses and clamps off. Use a die

grinder with a cutoff wheel, replace everything. 1/2" Green Stripe

hose, about 4 feet, trim to fit, six new clamps.

6. With radiator out, back flush with a garden hose at the return

tube. I swaged a rag around the hose and jammed it in there. If you

have > 60psi water pressure, go easy. Gunk will come out the water

pump supply tube and make a mess of the front. Use a long 1 1/4" hose

to route it to the ground. I spurted on and off for a few minutes

before it ran out clean.

7. Have the Bosch fan motors refurbed too. The fan nuts are LEFT hand

thread. I took them to a motor repair shop and they charged me $62

each to clean, replace brushes, lube and reasemble. Then I had the

housings and fans bead blasted (looks nice..uummm). Fans draw 7-8 amps

each.

8. Get help with the radiator install. I told the shop not to paint my

core, I think it's more efficient without paint on it. I did paint the

tanks and sides. Put the fans on first, install as an assembly. Heat

and fit the top and bottom hoses before bolting the radiator in,

they're stiff. Use anerobic sealant on the return tube gaskets.

9. Fill rad with distilled water and antifreeze. I don't make

recommendations, but I don't like the environmentally green type. Run

for a while, adding coolant to maintain level. Be ready to add plenty

when the thermostat opens. Check for leaks (inside too), keep adding,

rev the engine a bit to purge air. open/close the heater valve to

purge air from there.

10. Fill to top, close cap and fill expansion tank to half way. Let

the car cool, add coolant to expansion tank (not radiator). Start and

warm up car, add coolant to the expansion tank from now on, leave the

radiator system closed to keep air out. You may add coolant for a few

trips after sealing up, it's just air bubbles trapped in the head

finding they're way out. Keep the expansion tank about half full.

See; it's not War & Peace. The 400gt, Islero, Jarama are probably

pretty similar. Feel free to revise, embellish, or ignore all of the

above. I'm in the Rockies, and this a crappy job to do in winter. I'm

going to add a chin spoiler/air dam behind the three oval holes below

the bumper later. I want to get maximum air flow, but the purists will

go ballistic when I drill into the front pan to mount it.

Doc