From: "docmirror" <mirror@interfold.com>

Date: Tue Mar 4, 2003 10:52 pm

Subject: Re: My Jarama quit running, any ideas?

This will be a short test. Get a tee handle thin wall plug tool from

Sears. Remove and mark all plugs. If they are ALL dark, almost black,

you generally have a spark problem, if some are dark, it may be

related to carb float levels. Attach a new NGK BP7ES or equiv plug to the

wire on the drivers front ignition wire. Set the plug on the cam

cover so the base is grounded. Insure the fuel is connected to the

rails, and have someone turn over the car while you watch the new

plug. It should be a BLUE spark, if not, you will have to mark and

remove the distributor to check the point gap at .35-.40mm for all

FOUR points.

Do the same test for the pass side bank. If one is blue, and one is

not, it could be a bad coil, points(2), condenser, or ballast

resistor. Test each with a voltmeter working from the ballast (12V

one side 9V other), to the coil + to the coil - (pulses while engine

is turned over). Key off, Set meter to ohms, remove cap and rotor,

using a mirror, gear-bump around so that two set of points are open.

Now black meter lead to the dist housing, and red lead to a

condenser, it should charge quickly for a second the slow down it's

charge. Verify other condenser, after bumping other set of points

open.

Find NON-internally-ballasted coils from Napa or something and try it

with the new coil. Spark at the plug should be BLUE, not gold or

yellow. Leave the plugs OUT.

Attach a batt charger on low, remove the wire from each ballast

resistor (either wire). Block the throttles all the way open. Remove

the air cleaners. Turn on the key, listen for the fuel pump wobble or

tick. If you have a new style pump it may hum. The sound should be

rapid for 20-45 seconds as the carb bowls fill. Then the sound should

taper down as they become full, and no more fuel is required. If the

Jarama has a return line (I think not in 1971), the sound will remain

the same as fuel is going back to the tank via the return line. DO

NOT remove anything from any carb yet. Using the mirror, look into

the carb throats for fuel running down the intake, or fuel running

out the top of the carb vent. Turn over the engine and check for fuel

sloshing out the plug holes, if so, get it all out before putting the

plugs in. Reattach the ballast wires.

Smell the plug holes using a 12" x 1/2" heater hose. You will be able

to smell a fuel smell, it should not be overwhelming. If two adjacent

cylinders smell a lot this is an indication of fuel entering the

cylinders. Shut off the key. Replace the ballast wires. If any carbs

are out of float adjustment have a competent mechanic set them

between 8.5 to 15mm for the 20/21 carbs, and 9.5-18mm for the 22/23.

Since your car was running for quite awhile, we can rule out cam

timing/chain problems. But, being that it was recently rebuilt, I

would check the intake nuts being tight (use a 13mm 1/4 drive

universal socket from Snap-On), and also once the engine starts,

insure that you have exhaust gasses coming out of both pipes without

restriction.

Remove and block off the vacuum line from the left front of the

intake to the brake booster canister. The car will not have power

brakes now so be careful. Check the line for brake fluid, there

should be NONE. if there is any brake fluid in the vacuum line, don't

reconnect it as the brake fluid will wash the cylinders down, and

your new engine will fail very soon (I know). Check that you have to

add brake fluid often, if so, rebuild or replace brake boosters.

Summary: Likely coil, ballast, or condenser failure on temp rise.

Points getting too small gap to charge coil adequately. Blocked

exhaust due to excess unburnt fuel in system (should be black smoke).

Massive and increasing vacuum leaks from intake or brake booster.

Plugs will tell the story, should be dark tan to light brown

depending on mixture.

Write off list if you want more detailed instructions (mirror "@"

interfold.com). Welcome, and keep us informed. Where did you buy the

car? Ebay by chance?

Regards,

Doc